Trailer looks fine. Axles should be centered about 60% back from the front. If it's kicking you empty let some air out of the tires. If I run the full 80psi in my trailer it rides rough. I let the air down to about 40psi with a light load and air them up when I get heavy.
Learn the characteristics of your trailer. When mine has sat for a while the tires develop a flat spot that take a few miles to soften up. If it's cold out they ride rougher/stiffer than when it's hot.
It may be that your receiver/hitch components are loose. Check that out. They also make a hitch the has a rubber insert, (internal where the pins goes through the hitch), that can cushion things a little.
Learn to balance your load. Too much forward and the tongue weight abuses your truck, squats the rear end and affects ride quality. Too much weight too far back is flat dangerous as the trailer will start fishtailing. You'll lose control. A weight distributing hitch wouldn't hurt.
Do you have brakes on the trailer?? you should!!! Make sure they are working. If you have an electric controller set it up a notch or two. If hydraulic surge brakes get a pro to adjust them for you. I have mine set to come on just slightly ahead of and heavier than the truck brakes. I once had a brake controller that wouldn't adjust very well. It activated too hard too soon and would let off fast enough. I got rid of that one.
If your not going to a bigger truck, don't over load the trailer,slow down, and use common sense.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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