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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QUESTI

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Jim in NEB.

09-17-2006 11:32:33




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Here is what I did. I disconnected the rod from the carb. like you mentioned. The butterfly on the carb moved freely (good) and the gov arm moved freely now too (good but Scratching head now). The problem(for future reference) was a $.07 cotter pin. Thats right the head of the pin was acting as a stop on the butterfly shaft. When it rotated a 1/4" it was hard to see that. That Baby runs unbelieveable now better now than before. Hey one other thing I purchased a NEW RADIATOR CORE this web site. The gaskets where two small the hole would not line up (I pre soaked the gaskets prior to assembly the worked then). Yesterday I filled the radiator up with water no leaks all night. But I run the tractor for 5 minutes the water has not even got hot yet and this new core leaks worse then the original one. Not real happy with the items I purchased from here. I don't think I should have to use Bars Leaks in a new core, what are your thoughts?
Thanks
Jim

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Mike M

09-17-2006 16:27:18




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to Jim in NEB., 09-17-2006 11:32:33  
A Ha! the dreaded cotter pin binding. I always use an undersized one and put it through so the head is away from the carb. body and bend the ends completely around. The cotter pin size as called for by the book always seems to bind them up.

Did you get radiator gaskets from Deere ? If so that's a good chance of your problem. These are made out of too thin of material and do not seal well. I make mine out of thick gasket material either paper or cork/rubber compound and have had far better luck with these.

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F-I-T

09-17-2006 12:25:49




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to Jim in NEB., 09-17-2006 11:32:33  
>>>... I purchased a NEW RADIATOR CORE this web site. The gaskets where two small the hole would not line up (I pre soaked the gaskets prior to assembly the worked then).

I'm trying to understand what you are saying here. Do you mean that the gaskets were too small and you soaked them, and then "worked" them? Or that afer you soaked them they were the correct size? That's a scary thought. If a gasket isn't the correct size dry, I would look around until I found the proper one or make one that would fit.

>>>...Yesterday I filled the radiator up with water no leaks all night. But I run the tractor for 5 minutes the water has not even got hot yet and this new core leaks worse then the original one.

So you filled it water and there were no leaks, but a day later that are leaks. Doesn't sound like a core problem to me. Have you filled it water, or ethylene glycol coolant? Ethylene Glycol is chemically wetter than straight water, so while that could make a difference, I would look closely to see if you are leaking at the top seam at your gasket line and it is dribbling down the radiator and blowing around.

I have used cores from this site and from others such as A&I, and as long as you use the correct gaskets, use some sealant on all faces, epoxy fill any large pits in the tank faces, and drag lap the faces smooth, I have not had a problem. Are you closing the shutters to get the engine wearm? Without a thermostat and on a thermosyphon system, five minutes is not much heating time at all. A car would be barely warmed up at idle in that length of time. If you can work the engine it warm up much faster.

>>>Not real happy with the items I purchased from here. I don't think I should have to use Bars Leaks in a new core, what are your thoughts?

I don't think you should have to add Barr's leaks to a new core installation either, but not having seem your repair, I can't speak to what is the cause of the leaks.

Frank

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Jim in NEB.

09-17-2006 17:06:58




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to F-I-T, 09-17-2006 12:25:49  
I got the gaskets from A&I too. The gaskets were almost half a hole off. I soaked them and they expanded, then they were hole on hole. My first time around I used JD gaskets and they were just fine. I am only using water at this point. The leak is in the core itself, I checked all around the top seams, nothing and you can visually see the water coming out of the core. I noticed that about 10% of the down tube were plugged with solder at the ends I had to clear them it is very obvious that the core was not inspected at factory. All I can say is I am not at all happy with A&I at the moment.

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Mike M

09-18-2006 13:19:40




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to Jim in NEB., 09-17-2006 17:06:58  
Once you go to anti freeze that leak will really become bad ! You could pull that radiator out and have the core fixed or return it and get one from a local radiator shop. The ones I have gotten were from Modine.



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Jim in NEB.

09-19-2006 17:05:29




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to Mike M, 09-18-2006 13:19:40  
3 bottles of heavy duty bars leaks and 15 minutes of run time = dry as a bone now.



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Mike M

09-20-2006 06:25:46




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to Jim in NEB., 09-19-2006 17:05:29  
Could of done that to the old core ????? and saved all that money ??? and time ???

You shouldn't need to do that to a NEW core.



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P Browning

09-17-2006 12:01:59




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 Re: Frank Your a Good Man!!! NOTE THE RADIATOR QU in reply to Jim in NEB., 09-17-2006 11:32:33  
Jim -- Could it be that you have "anti-freeze" lock? Here's a paragraph from the JD-H Restoration Guide, 2nd Edition that may prove helpful. (PatB)
----- --
ANTIFREEZE -- When adding antifreeze like the conventional green coolant such as NAPA brand prepared for NAPA by the makers of PEAK, strive to avoid having all of the antifreeze in the bottom of the cooling system. Don't just pour the antifreeze in first! Mix! Mixing antifreeze with water before pouring the mixture into the radiator will prevent development of an "antifreeze block" in your cooling system. In your JD "H" tractor, heated water will rise over unheated water because heated water has a lower "specific gravity," i.e., it is not as dense, thus lighter in weight. This "automatic circulation" does not happen until water in the lower part of the coolant jacket (engine) is heated to achieve this "less dense" state so as to rise. The specific gravity of NAPA antifreeze is 1.12. That is 12% heavier than pure water! Its density is not known to change much with temperature, and it will NEVER become less dense than pure water. So, if the lower half of your coolant jacket is filled with pure antifreeze, it just WILL NOT rise over water, meaning that you may have NO circulation! The temperature gauge reads HOT, yet the upper radiator tank is COLD. If this happens, drain, mix and then reinstall the mixture into the tractor. Caution: Never drain coolant from a super-heated engine; just shut it down and let it cool. ++++

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