8n lift problem

Bottom line.. pto runs the hydro pump.. The lift will only go up when the pto's engaged and the clutch is not pushed.

If you disengage the pto or push the clutch in and the lift drops, the usual culpret is a leaky lift cyl, though there are other causes.. like a leaky top or bottom cover gasket.. leaky pump chamber gasket.. or even a leaky relief valve.

The I&T FO-4 manual detials R&R of the lift area.

Best way to diagnose the lift is to remove the right side round cover.. lift a heavy load.. look in the lift area with a flashlight.. look for squirts and leaks. A leak from the mouth of the lift cyl is common... an easy replacement is to get a NAA piston for about 28$ and a oring and washer for another 5$.. and a new top cover gasket.. 2$.. it's about a 4 hour job give or take.

Now if you don't see a leak from the mouth.. could be from the standpipe.. and that would be oil running down the side of the casting on the right front.. or a swirl at the bottom right front. That is a gasket issue.. top or bottom.m If bottom.. gasket is a couple bucks.. plus you will need a pto gasket and that round cover gasket.. course the round cover gasket can be made with rtv or goop.. but none of the others can be done that way.. you must use the clean paper gasket.. and have clean mating surfaces.

If it is a pump gasket or relief valve.. you will see a swirl around the pump.. rear for the valve..

you have to pull the pto shaft to drop the pump.

Need to go ahead and drain the oil if you do this as you may drop contaminants in it.

you will need 4.5 - 5 g's of either NH M2C134d style fluid ( UTF fluid from tractor supply is fine.. and cheaper ).. or 90wt gl-1 or 3 type oil. napa sells 90wt 5g's of gl-1 oil for about 25$ part number 65-205. TSC sells 90wt gl 1?3? oil for ford transmissions for about the same price. Avoid GL4 and GL5 oils.

Your choice onthe oil. the thinner stuff is better inthe cold.. the thicker stuff is better if yuo have any leaks.. or if your pump is a tad worn. IMHO.. I like the thick stuff.

Sometimes you luck up and walmart has the gl-1 90wt oil for 17$

Fill the sump ONLY until oil runs out the bottom bolt hole in the round cover.. pull your dipstick and mark that new level.. this should be about 4.5 - 4.75 gallons. This lower level helps keep the rear axle seals, and tranny input shaft seal from leaking.

If you do drop the pump.. use diesel or kero.. or mineral spirits to clean the sump out.. sludge collects there..

Top to bottom you can do this in about 9 hours or less.. if you do everything. Top half is easiest..

Soundguy

• Same question you posted..down the page...

A N-Hydraulic system in good condition will hold a heavy implement "UP" overnite. (its NOT GOOD to do because of safety concerns that the implement will eventually settle down on somebodys toe) Most consider the N's hydraulic system good iff'n it'll hold a heavy implement up for 30-mins with the engine off.

As for your friends advice, yes the implement should stay up for a little while when you push yer clutch in as it STOPS the PTO from turning the hydraulic pump and keeping the lift under pressure.

Me? I'd evaluate the "hassle effect" of a drifting implement versa the pump rebuild cost.

But in the mean time, I'd remove the 6" round dipstick plate and watch inside the hydraulic resevour for squirts while I lifted the heavy 3-point implement. There are 2-common squirters. The hydraulic piston behind the dogbone and the sidewall standpipe gasket. It will be intuitively obvious which is which..... ....respectfully, Dell