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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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stalling

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ron francis tro

05-28-2006 07:13:46




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could stalling after warm up and then restarting after a short wait be a coil problem or is it more likely vapor lock..... ...the problem is I can't see where the fuel line is exposed to that much heat..... .....




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ron francis troncatty

05-28-2006 07:21:29




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 Hey Bob you there? in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 07:13:46  
I had a conversation with you a while back about installing the 12 volt conversion kit and whether or not I needed a ballist resistor for the 12 volt coil that came with the kit..... ..I talked to pertronix and they said I shouldn't and can just run the coil wire throught the little resistor on the tractor that is stock..... .

anyway the tractor has ran fine up until now and is stalling like vapor lock but can't see where the fuel line is getting heated up ..... after a while it restarts..... .but stalls again depending on how long of a cool down I allow ..... ...overnight allows another run of about 30 minutes before a stall? couldn't be the coil could it?

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Bruce (VA)

05-28-2006 08:01:31




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 07:21:29  
I can tell you what it is probably not, and that is a vapor lock. Give us some more info about your tractor & the symptoms when it stops running. Is it 6v or 12v, front or side distributor, and just what does it do exactly when it stops running? Sputter, cough, wheeze, or just stop dead?



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ron francis troncatty

05-28-2006 08:06:04




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to Bruce (VA), 05-28-2006 08:01:31  
It sputters just a bit..... ..9n with 12 volt conversion and pertronix igniter electronic ignition..... ....



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Bob

05-28-2006 09:13:03




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 08:06:04  
FWIW, I put in my two cent's worth in the post below.



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ron francis troncatty

05-28-2006 13:39:39




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to Bob, 05-28-2006 09:13:03  
I don't see your other post Bob that you said was below..... .....could stalling and restarting be a coil overheating or does a coil just fail and not recover..... ..... ....



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Bob

05-28-2006 15:34:07




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 13:39:39  
Here's the text of the post, and a link to the thread with the post in it:

You are certainly having the symptoms of a overheated coil. You can verify if it is ignition or "vapor lock" by checking for spark immediately after it has heated up, stopped running, and won't start.

I would have used "Dell's Trick Resistor ahead of the coil. The Pertronix folks are giving the OK to run without a resistor, based on what their MODULE will tolerate, and they must not have figured out what a delicate piece of @*$^ most of the generic "12-Volt square-can coils" are.

At this point, you can try adding the resistor, but the coil may have been overheated to the point where it is permanently damaged.

Then, you'll have to start over with a new coil AND a resistor.

I see no reason NOT to try "Dell's Resistor". The added resistance certainly will not cause any damage, the worst result with too much resistance will be weak spark, but the worst result of NOT enough resistance in the circuit will be a failed coil, and then, possibly a failed module.

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Phil (NJ,AZ,Sask)

05-28-2006 16:00:50




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to Bob, 05-28-2006 15:34:07  
[Quote] The Pertronix folks are giving the OK to run without a resistor, based on what their MODULE will tolerate.[/quote]

I think he said that "Pertronix" said to just use the OEM Ballast. They did not say to run the coil without a resistor.

BTW: The late 70's Dodge use a RU-11, book said its operating resistance is ~ 1.5- 1.7 Ohms.

JM02$



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ron francis troncatty

05-29-2006 06:29:44




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to Phil (NJ,AZ,Sask), 05-28-2006 16:00:50  
the 12 volt conversion instructions say to run the new resistor between the key and the OEM ballist..... ..If the pertronix can take the full wallop should I connect it on the other side of the OEM ..... between the OEM and the Coil? or should I connect it between the key and the original OEM ballist? and please read my other post to Bob I sent seperately



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Dell (WA)

05-28-2006 09:12:40




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 Re: Hey Bob you there? in reply to ron francis troncatty, 05-28-2006 08:06:04  
Ron..... ..I just answered yer question down the page, but for your convience, I'll re-post it again..... ...Dell

Ron..... .you write..... .."well everything has been going fine now with my (Pertronix) conversion since this little discussion we had but now my tractor is stalling after a while of running..... ..(eh? re-define "running fine" please)

it starts back up after a few minutes but only runs for a few more minutes and stalls again..... ....(melted insulative tar shorts out the coil windings)

if I leave it overnight it runs longer before stalling..... ..(wannna what overnite cooldown does to melted insulative tar?)

could this be vapor lock..... ...(you think its vapor lock? crack open yer tankcap but remember its very hard to vapor-lock a gravity fed fuel system)

it couldn't be the coil could it. (YES!!!)

If it were the coil it would just go out and not start again right?"..... ....(ignition coils are NOT like lightbulbs or fuses. They have eazy to overheat and melt insulative tars and shorts out the coil windings and cause weak sparkies and ultimately engine stops running until the tar hardens again)..... .....respectfully, Dell yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

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