Thanks For the Quick Reply

First off, you should know that there are levels of expertise on this board. I personally would defer to Dell, Hugh, old, a couple of Jims, and many many others.

In turn I have some more questions. Does the missing seem regular, or is it erratic? Does it occure more at idle, higher speeds, or is it the same at all speeds?

Early in the diagnostic process I like to try the simple tests first.

Check the fuel flow. I like to pull the drain plug as this tests flow through the whole system up to the carb throat. When you pull the drain plug you should see a steady flow about the diameter of the fuel line. I'd run a gallon or so through and look for inconsistencies.

If your fuel flow checks out, next you might consider trying to isolate the problem to one cylinder. You can do this at the same time you check for good spark by using the following procedure:

Start at the front, by the radiator. Pull the spark line from the plug. Take a spark plug with the gap adjusted all the way out to 3/16" and pop the line onto it. Hold the plug next to the block and crank. You should see a nice blue spark jump the full 3/4".

While you have the line disconnected, listen CAREFULLY to the engine run. Is the engine running about the same? The problem is likely to be in cylinder number one.

Is the missing worse? The problem is not likely to be exclusive to cylinder number one. Write down your observations and replace the spark line. Then move on to cylinder two and perform the same tests. If necessary, continue down the line, always replacing the previously tested line before disconnecting the next one.

The idea is not to mix up the firing order (1243). If in the course of this examination you find that someone HAS mixed up the firing order, you've probably found your problem.

If, after running the above spark test, it is found that removing the spark wire from each cylinder in turn DOES NOT affect the way the engine runs, the problem is likely to be in systems common to all cylinders.

Finally, I should certainly point out that many including myself have found the ignition switches on Ford tractors problematic. If the above fuel test reveals nothing, and you seem to have weak spark, you could try replacing the ignition switch before doing a wholesale tune up.

• Hobby farm

Ron11

The fact that the missing is consistent means it is likely to be limited to one cylinder.

I usually shut off the engine to pull the wires; old may know something I don't.

I probably should have written, "If, after running the above test, it is found that removing the spark line from each cylinder has the same result regardless of which line is removed, then the problem is likely to be in systems common to all cylinders."