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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

Am ready for better quality paint and need help

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Dan9-Midwest

05-31-2006 18:42:57




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In the past I have used TSC or other cheap paint and not been satisfied. Took way too much paint,coverage was poor and it faded quickly.
I have learned about quality from the guys on this board and am ready to upgrade but unsure where to get what I think I want. I like acrylic enamel because it is relatively cheap and covers well. I used factory paint that was acrylic and liked it. I paint farm equip for resale with a HVLP Devilbiss system, do not use external air and spray outside on calm days.
Where can I get acrylic enamel paint and what do I ask for? Keep it simple please. What does it cost? Do they stock-or mix-colors? Can I use over a cheaper (Rustoleum)primer? I know I shouldn't but can I? Same question with acetone primer? Do I strain the paint?
I have a 1.8mm tip. Is this OK? I need a push in the right direction and am looking for some advice. Since I paint to resell I need to keep my cost down but want to do the kind of quality I have seen from acrylic enamel and don't want to get external air. Any advice appreciated.

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Brad_bb

06-07-2006 08:20:06




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Dan9-Midwest, 05-31-2006 18:42:57  
CNKS,
Last month I bought a gallon of DPLF50 plust the two quarts of catalyst needed. Total including tax was $219.71. I think the place I buy from is a little bit on the high side. That"s the retail price I believe. I am pretty sure they aren"t giving me the body shop price. Body shops get it at a better price(maybe 15 or 20 percent better I"d guess). I"ve never used the Omni you mentioned. I"ve never use the Omni line at all. I really like the product I have used and stick with them until my body shop owner friend finds something different that he"s tested and likes. An alternative to the DPLF is Keystone brand epoxy. If you can find a distributor, I think it is a little cheaper. He got me to try it and we both like it and it seems equivalent to PPG DP. My problem is that I don"t have an easy source for it. The autobody supply store that sells PPG is just 20 minutes away and is open on Saturday mornings, which is the only time I can get there. They"ll also let me call and pay by credit card for things. Once in a great while they"ll let me do after hours pick ups by special arrangement.

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CNKS

06-07-2006 17:02:53




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Brad_bb, 06-07-2006 08:20:06  
I can understand that Concept AU will have advantages over Omni AU. Whether I need the Concept for my purposes, I don't know -- I'm tempted to try it. But, I'm still looking for an answer to whether I should also upgrade what I put under it, and what advantage I would see, if any. No one seems to have an answer for that.



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Rod (NH)

06-07-2006 19:19:29




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to CNKS, 06-07-2006 17:02:53  
CN,

I'll add my 2 cents. I doubt you'll see any advantage.

DPLF advantage(s) over MP170 for the DIY as I see it:

1. 7 day recoat window instead of 3 - perhaps some additional value there
2. 6 colors instead of three - questionable additional value there
3. Bragging rights - additional value = ? For the commercial shop using PPG trained/certified personnel, there is the consideration of manufacturer warranty of the painting "system". That warranty is not applicable to the DIY, so there's no additional value there, at least for most of us.

As you probably know I used DP for years, even before they took the lead out and renamed it DPLF. It is a great product but I no longer use it because of the clear price advantage of the MP170. I'll grant that it is "better" in the sense that a premium product is usually considered better than a similar economy one. However, the question is really whether DPLF actually provides a level of increased performance over MP170 sufficient enough to justify the much greater cost - at least twice as much. Is it twice as good? I think not but I am open to any reasonable argument that it is.

I have not noticed a difference in how the two apply. They seem equally good. I suspect that only some kind of careful, long term comparison testing (including adhesion tests) could determine any actual performance difference. I doubt that's been done by anyone. I can personally verify the long term durability of DP. I've only been using the 170 for about four years but so far, so good. I have every confidence that you would not have a problem applying DCC (or anything else for that matter) over the 170, either directly or in conjunction with any surfacer of your choice. In any event, you ought to try some DPLF just to satisfy your curiosity. You can get it in quarts so you don't have to spring for a whole gallon. That will give you 1-1/2 qts RTS material. If you wind up liking it better than 170 and feel it's worth the greater cost to you, then go for it. You certainly can't go wrong since it's a top notch product.

Of course if you use DPLF as your bare metal primer and DCC as your topcoat, why stop there? It's only another step up to move to a premium surfacer from MP182 and thus complete the Deltron "system". In the end you will have spent between two and three times more than an OMNI MTK system would have cost. For commercial shops doing collision repair on modern automobiles, the better color matching, time saving and manufacturer warranty of the premium systems make them definitely worth it. For a DIY doing an overall on his tractor(s), I seriously question whether it is.

Like you, I want to at least try the DCC. I actually bought some back in March. Cost $64/qt for my persian orange (DCC60080). The hardener (DCX61) was $28 for 1/2 pint and the reducer (DT870) was $15 for a qt. With the recommended 4:2:1 color:reducer:hardener mix, that works out to about $57 per RTS quart. These are walk-in prices. I don't get any kind of discount. The invoice indicates (if you can believe it) suggested list prices as follows: $80/qt for the color, $35 for 1/2 pt of hardener and $19 for a qt of reducer. That's $71 per RTS quart. The DCC is very noticeably heavier in the can. But it's also reduced twice as much as the MTK. I haven't used it yet because the shade is not a perfect match with MTK 60080 and I don't want to use both on the same tractor. I may wind up using it on my snowblower but that is not likely to happen this year. I strongly suspect I'll come to the same conclusion that I did with my DBU/MBC basecoat comparison of a couple years ago. Namely that the premium color covers better such that you can use one less coat than the economy color. Even considering that, the cost was still more than twice as much for the premium DBU. Where the additional cost is fully justified is in panel color matching with OEM finishes on cars and trucks. The DBU was clearly superior in that respect.

If you haven't already got some DCC in your color (71310 isn't it?), you may have to prevail on your supplier to actually call PPG. The formula for the same code in DCC may not be in the computer. Jason (ma) clued me in to that. I was told that my 60080 was not available in DCC, only MTK. Fortunately, the jobber called PPG after I requested it and they faxed the formula in DCC so he could mix it. You may even find that the DCC eliminates that orange tint that concerns you in MTK. You will never know unless you try it.

Rod

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B-maniac

06-08-2006 18:59:39




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Rod (NH), 06-07-2006 19:19:29  
I have used the complete Deltron System since 1985 when it was introduced here in central Mich. I too have switched to Omni 170 for my epoxy and love it. It acts a little thicker when sprayed but still lays out flat when dry. Thinned a little with 870 makes an excellent sealer.(no sand scratches and provides a virgin,uniform chem. bond base for the top coat.My opinion is if you are paying more,you are waisting money.I agree with Rod on the base coat.Stay with PPG. I base / clear everything. The reasons are too many to go into here. Maybe in a future post if any interest. In a nutshell,it is so simple and foolproof and "teachable" that you will never go back once you have used it.

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CNKS

06-07-2006 20:26:04




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Rod (NH), 06-07-2006 19:19:29  
As to the DPLF vs MP 170, you confirmed what I had already concluded -- I just wanted to know if I missed anything. I am considering Concept (applied over Omni) for my next tractor. Due to the cost, it may not become a habit. I am willing to experiment (up to a point $$) with the toners if necessary. I am 99% positive that 71310 is available in Concept, granted it may not be the same color. My modification of the 71310 Omni looks good to me, I may of may not have to do it with Concept. My "reasoning" is that if I am unable to correct my contamination problem, I am interested in knowing if it buffs out better. I have pretty well figured the color sanding/buffing out, particularly since I bought the small buffer you recommended, but it is a lot more work than simply painting. Also Frank Stalfire mentioned that the UV inhibitors in single stage "float to the surface", and can be removed with sanding. I hope I am not creating TSC paint!.

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Brad_bb

06-06-2006 13:36:49




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Dan9-Midwest, 05-31-2006 18:42:57  
If you are a production shop where you"re using a high volume of products, it makes sense to try and find cost savings. But if your a regular guy, doing restoration, and putting in your valuable time that no one is paying for, doesnt" it make sense to use high quality products. I think so. I"d hate to put in a ton of work and 5 years down the road have the paint fading, or rust showing up. Proper techniques and proper products are worth it in my book. If it"s worth doing at all, it"s worth doing right. PPG DPLF epoxy primer is great stuff. It seals out moisture, seals metal, seals in your bodywork, and makes and excellent bond to successive layers of material. Do not leave it out in the sun though. Like all epoxy based materials, the are subject to be broken down by UV radiation and will break down and chalk over time. They are meant to be top coated with paint, which will give it the UV protection it needs. For Paint, I use PPG DCC acrylic urethane. Excellent color hold out over time, goes on nice, and will last. Though I have never done it, you could also use Omni (the cheaper PPG product line), but I would not skimp out on the prep and primer -PPG DPLF Epoxy. Metal prepping involves removing all traces of rust, treating with PPG DX579 on sheetmetal part to clean and prep them and then treating with PPG"s Zinc phosphate coating (I forget the PN). One of the hard parts is that PPG doesn"t have good records on the correct colors. So you have to match it close to a chip in their standard color book or... get a correct colored original part that is not faded and have them use a spectrum analyzer on it (also called a profit), or do like I did, find another paint that is the correct color, buy some and spray out a swatch card big enough for the paint store to use the profit machine on. They can then give you the formula and mix the paint. I just ordered a quart of paint from Napa(actually Martin Seymour brand) because a local Ford tractor expert in my area assured me that this was a very good match. I will spray out a swatch card and get it profit"d in PPG DCC. Cost me $31 for the quart. It is the gray color(that has a beige tint to it) for my 55 Ford 960 tractor. DCC can also be flattened with PPG DX685 flattener to get the gloss level you desire (you mix it). On all my classic car restoration I use PPG DCC 9300 Black, flattened to the gloss level i need for under hood and chassis components. It does really help because many times paint can be too glossy so that it doesn"t look exactly as original, and sometimes flattening it to 80 degree (percent) gloss really does the trick.

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jason(ma)

06-07-2006 10:20:17




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Brad_bb, 06-06-2006 13:36:49  
Brad here is a link to Rod(NH)'s list for ppg tractor paint codes. The info comes from ppg's old tractor paint code spec sheets.



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CNKS

06-06-2006 17:15:48




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Brad_bb, 06-06-2006 13:36:49  
I was going to use the DPLF epoxy and see if I liked it better than Omni MP 170. --Until my dealer wanted $300/gallon for it, including hardener. What do you pay? -- maybe I'm getting taken. If I do upgrade, I'm probably going to put Concept over the Omni products, recommended or not. I have a Sata touch up gun ordered, $230, not satisfied with my Sharpe, although it is probably jetted wrong for my use. Except for possible better flowout, what advantage do you see to DPLF over Omni MP 170, if you are going to put surfacer over it?

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Brad_bb

06-06-2006 13:42:17




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Brad_bb, 06-06-2006 13:36:49  
By the way, I use a Sata 90 gun with a 1.4 tip. Cost of DCC - It depends on the color and the markup of your local source. Certian pigments are more expensive than others. Red is the most I think. I just paid $302 for 1 gallon of Vermillion red for my Ford tractor. When comparing the cost of paint, you also have to consider how much coverage you"ll get out of the paint. I"m pretty sure I can do two ford tractors with this gallon. Consider the harder and reducer you need to mix in too. Flattener too if desired. The cost of the paint itself is meaning less unless you factor in the cost of the other mixed chemicals and how far it will cover.

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CNKS

05-31-2006 20:18:41




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Dan9-Midwest, 05-31-2006 18:42:57  
The paint manufacturer recommends tip sizes for HVLP. The link indicates that PPG acrylic urethane needs a 1.3 to 1.6. I'm surprised you are satisfied with a 1.8 tip. To me that's a fire hose, even for thick primer surfacers. A 1.5 will atomize much better and you will get a better finish.

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B-maniac

05-31-2006 19:38:38




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 Re: Am ready for better quality paint and need hel in reply to Dan9-Midwest, 05-31-2006 18:42:57  
Where to get it? Auto supply stores/Carquest etc. Cost? They will tell you. Depends on color. The colors you want,they will probably have t mix Spray it over any primer Tip; don't know,don't use those guns. Strain paint always,strainers are FREE. Without catylist,it should still stay shiny long enough to sell equipment(1 yr)Use a "B" grade like PPG's Omni or equivelant.If not the results you want step up to catylist or "A" grade without.You said to keep it simple.I did the best I could. (see my post above)

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