All you need is a standard 10SI alternator, available quite reasonably as a rebuilt, or for as little as $5.00 "recycled".Then, jumper the #2 "voltage sense" terminal over to the large output stud. 
Then, run a wire from the switched side of the ignition switch to a 1N5008 (or equivalent) diode, and then from the diode to the alternator's #1 "switched excite" terminal. Run a wire, AT LEAST 10ga. from the alternator's large output stud to the ammeter, or battery side of the starter switch or starter solenoid. This will likely be CHEAPER than going with the goofy one-wire system, will use a standard off-the-shelf Delco 10SI alternator, with no need to tear into it ro make internal "mods". This setup will begin to charge at lower RPM's than the "one-wire" units, and is less likely to put a parasitic drain on the battery that will "kill" it during periods when the machine sits unused. If the machine does not have an ignition switch to supply 12-Volts while the machine is running, you can use an oil pressure switch to send power to the diode only while the engine is running, and has oil pressure. If you do not wish to use a diode, you can use an "idiot lamp" with a #194 lamp in it's place, or use a "side marker lamp" with a #194 lamp, mounted out of sight. BobM, over on the Farmall Board, has graciously posted a series of diagrams of 12-Volt IH tractor conversions, which can, in general, be used on about ANY old machine. He even has one or two with an oil pressure switch in the circuit. His diagrams use the "idiot lights" instead of a diode, but, remember, the diode or the # 194 lamp are direct substitutes for each other. Use which ever appeals to you!
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