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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Follow-up on removing pistons on 400

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Wardner

03-24-2008 14:07:57




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The thread has moved to the second page. Seeing as how many didn't understand where I was going with my initial post, I added some background info.




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RAB

03-26-2008 10:14:54




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 Re: Follow-up on removing pistons on 400 in reply to Wardner, 03-24-2008 14:07:57  
Simple fix really. Change the pulleys. The engine may need to be governed down to prevent generator overspeed.
Regards, RAB



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Steven f/AZ

03-26-2008 11:53:37




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 Re: Follow-up on removing pistons on 400 in reply to RAB, 03-26-2008 10:14:54  

RAB said: (quoted from post at 10:14:54 03/26/08) Simple fix really. Change the pulleys. The engine may need to be governed down to prevent generator overspeed.

Regards, RAB


I believe the IH Electrall is mounted to the belt pulley drive and is GEAR driven so changing pulleys would not work...

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buickanddeere

03-25-2008 10:42:30




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 Re: Follow-up on removing pistons on 400 in reply to Wardner, 03-24-2008 14:07:57  
Pulling the roads & pistons is not the way to go. Oiling, balance, time, work both now and later for just starters. At 52.4 rated HP for an engine in top notch condition. It"s going to working hard just to spin that alternator at full load or while starting compressors. 19-21HP depending on generator & it"s drive efficiency. How about the other loads. Now add in all your other intended loads. Not only is it going to be lugging when running on two cylinders. The exhaust and mechanical noise is going to be much louder compared to a four cylinder at 2/3 load. Have another thought on how much HP is used to spin the cooling fan and thrash thick lubricating oil in the sumps at full rated rpms. As previously posted, it"s going to burn less fuel on four cylinders than two if.... You get the coolant temps up to 220F for efficency, lean the idle and main mixture so it"s running 15.7 to 1 not 13.5 to 14 to 1. Drain those thick old mineral lubricants and replace. The old lube must be due for a change anyways. Replace with a winter weight synthetic. The synthetic trans/hydraulic lube is going to lube better than the old GL-1 or the 0W-20 engine oil vs. sae40. The engine cooling fan, water pump & generator is taking HP that isn"t required. As the engine will be running at full rated rpms. The crankshaft pulley can be reduced to drive the generator, water pump and fan at 1/2 to 2/3 speed. You will gain far more by reducing drag and increasing combustion efficiency than tinkering a 4-2 system. The tractor will still have full rated HP available in reserve as a bonus.

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Steven f/AZ

03-24-2008 15:22:11




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 Re: Follow-up on removing pistons on 400 in reply to Wardner, 03-24-2008 14:07:57  
Try this before removing the pistons:

Remove valve cover, remove the pushrods for the cylinders that you want to disable. You want the valves to remain closed. Why? If the intake valve opens, it will suck fuel - if the exhaust valve opens it will pull in heat, soot, and possibly dirt from the exhaust.

Remove the spark plugs, make a pipe to go from the holes to some sort of air filter so you don't suck dirt in. Now those two cylinders won't be consuming fuel and won't require power to push over compression. Just a bit of friction loss. Of course the carb will now need adjustment...

All of the above is easy to reverse and doesn't require much disassembly. I don't know if two cylinders will pull hard enough to get your RPM up where you need, though.

If you go ahead with removing the pistons, be sure the valves are disabled and closed. My recommendation is to come up with weights that are equal to the piston and rod to hang on the crankshaft journals - just like they do to balance a crankshaft. This way you can put the bearings in and don't have to worry about plugging any holes.

Just my thoughts... I've driven the A around on two and three cylinders before just to see how it sounds, it runs OK but the power is a bit more "rough."

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Bob

03-24-2008 23:20:37




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 Re: Follow-up on removing pistons on 400 in reply to Steven f/AZ, 03-24-2008 15:22:11  
I'm almost certain allowing the engine to "vent" through the spark plug holes would take more power than simply removing the BOTH pushrods from each cylinder you want to shut down, and leaving the spark plugs in place.

Yes, it does take power to compress whatever air is left in the unused cylinders, but almost all that energy gets returned as the piston passes tdc and moves downward.

I'm sure huffing air in and out would take MORE energy than simply compressing it an letting it spring back.

A "Jake Brake" sort of works on that principal.

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old popper

03-24-2008 14:49:17




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 Re: Follow-up on removing pistons on 400 in reply to Wardner, 03-24-2008 14:07:57  
Be nice. Just because I prefer John Deere tractors and equipment, I don,t refer to your Farmall 400 as red crapola. Thanks for letting me vent my frustrations. Have a nice day.



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