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Farmall Tractors Discussion Board |
Re: 6 to 12 volt conversion for 54 H
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Posted by RK Smith on April 11, 1999 at 04:53:53:
In Reply to: 6 to 12 volt conversion for 54 H posted by bernard on April 10, 1999 at 19:29:45:
If you have a distributor, the condenser is not part of the conversion. For good measure, you probably should put new points and a condenser on either before or after the conversion. If you are saying that you have the alternator "ready to mount on the tractor," then first you have to know if it is internally regulated or not. If not, you will have to have a voltage regulator, and you will probably have to convert the system from "pos" ground (pos side of battery grounded to starter mounting bolt on chassis) to "neg" ground. This is because your replacement alternator is probably "neg" grounded through the case and it won't work on a pos system. I can't tell you if your alternator is internally regulated, but Sherll@rollanet.org can, if you send him all the markings and numbers off the alternator. He will send you a diagram if you ask. Don't be afraid about reversing the leads on the starter by changing the polarity. The starter will still turn the same way because you are reversing the current in "both" the armature and field circuits. Your starter is probably the old original 6V or a replacement, and it won't hurt it to use 12V, just spins it like a devil. So, the pos post of battery should be wired to the starter relay, and the neg post of battery to the starter mounting bolt. Then, obviously, the lead from the other side of the starter relay goes to the "hot" or "now positive" side of the starter(the terminal on top of the starter). Now, check that the distributor leads to the neg side of the coil, and the pos side of the coil leads to a ballast resistor (a little coil in a porcelain mount) and that leads to the pull-ignition switch (or a place where switched "now positive" voltage is derived). If is is already that way, don't change it, since the coil is not polarity sensitive, and you will only be leaving it the way it should be anyway. That circuit only charges the primary winding of the coil, so that it will discharge through the secondary, with high voltage spark happening at the plug. When you're set like above, **before you make the alternator connections**, put the alternator on the tractor and connect the belt, and tighten it correctly. Then "start" the tractor and make sure it runs OK. When you are satisfied, then all you will have to do is connect the alternator and that depends on whether it is self regulated or you will need a voltage regulator. If it is self regulated, you will only need one approx 10 gage wire run to the dead side of the pull-switch from the terminal marked "BAT" on the alternator. If it needs an external voltage regulator, then you will need that one wire in the previous sentence and a wire run from the "field" clip on the alternator to a new voltage regulator "field screw" and then a wire from the "ign" clip on the voltage regulator to the "dead side" of the pull-switch. You may need to reverse the leads on the ammeter, if you have one and it is hooked up, because it may show the opposites (discharge for charge, etc.) Anyway, the ammeter should be in "series" to the battery with the line that runs from the alternator "BAT" to the switch. That's all. If you will put all the numbers and markings from your alternator in a post, I will see if it matches my alternator. I just did this on mine. Good luck, RKS
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