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Re: Farmall C Starter Question
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Posted by Owen Aaland on March 23, 2007 at 11:39:58 from (65.165.246.14):
In Reply to: Farmall C Starter Question posted by Kenneth Fass on March 23, 2007 at 08:04:43:
To remove the stud you need a propane torch and compressed air. Carfully heat the stud on the outside until the solder start to melt on the inside. Blow the old solder out, being careful where the solder lands, and bend the field coil leads enough to make sure they are free. If they are still stuck, reheat and blow more solder out. Remove the nut and the stud will come out. Note how the insulators are installed. It is a good idea to replace them along with the stud. If the stud has a small washer face on it there probably will not be a steel washer next to it. Otherwise there should be. Parts should be in this order: 1) Stud 1) Steel washer (not used on some studs) 1) Large insulator washer 2) Small insulators (fit inside the hole) 1) Large insulator washer 1) Steel washer 1) Nut To reassembly, clean the slot in the new stud so it shows bright copper. Assemble the above parts in the proper order. Bend the field coil ends so that the stay seated in the bottom of the slot. Carefully heat the outer end of the stud while applying solder to the inside end. Remove the heat as soon as the solder starts to melt. The copper will transfer heat rapidly but be careful to allow enough time and not apply so much heat it burns the insulators. If the solder does not flow smoothly apply a little more heat until the solder flows to both the stud and the field coil ends. When reassebling the starter, make sure the field coil leads do not touch the armature. Bend then toward the case if necessay. H & M starters that have a threaded stud for the battery cable, very often have cracked solder joints on the inside. This method works well to repair them also.
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