Re: Re: Re: SETTING VALVES ON 10-20- BOB KERR

Posted by Bob Kerr on February 19, 2002 at 09:09:28 from (205.188.193.28):

In Reply to: Re: Re: SETTING VALVES ON 10-20- BOB KERR posted by Will@ont.ca on February 19, 2002 at 01:11:51:

Thank you for the vote of confidence Will! and sorry about the rocket launch of questions,Ok Back to the head, When I had the off my 10-20 all but 3 valves were stuck , some of them very stuck and needed the torch and big brass hammer to get them to budge. There was only 2 valves that looked to me like they were fit , (turned out they weren't), to use because they had been ground what looked like several times and with the rust they were very thin where the seat seals. The seats were heavily rusted from mouse whizz and the guys at the machine shop said they didn't think there would be "enough meat left" to grind and it would put the valve train out of whack if we did it.We ended up putting in all new seats and used regular iron seats. I used iron because I didn't want to have hardened seats wear down the new valves I also had to get.They wanted to use hardened seats but when I told them that were weren't using special alloy valves and this was a slow RPM engine they saw the light.If fact , they had to rethink a lot of things they were going to do like tight valve stem clearance. Tight is bad on these engines!The lack of oil pumped to the valve train is the big reason. I think you are right about the valve seat being ground down too low and that making the valve stick up too high. These engines are very forgiving with tolerences,But there is a point where that changes if it is going to last very long. When I did my engine, I tried to get everything back the way it was when new so I could use the tractor for years and not worry about it. Boy am I glad I did! One thing that was even better was people commenting on how nice it runs, and several said it was the nicest running 10-20 they ever heard! I was even running it on kero at the shows. I hate to say it , but if it was my tractor, I would pull off the head again and get those valves and seats straighted out. Just machining off a little off the adjuster or arm, you will be pushing the valve stem a little bit sideways and may cause it and the guide to wear out quick.Remember that these things don't get a lot of oil flow to the top of the valve train, just what drips out of the trough. About 70% of an engine that runs nice is in the head, with the cam and rings and carb etc following up. It is expensive work,(I have $487 in my head) but once done right , it will last for years so you can "spread out the cost", and it might even lower overall cost down the "furrow" since you won't have that "nagging missing" and be chasing bad carbs, mags, spark wires and plugs and things like that. As far as the gasket goes, I was a bit concered about if it was a plain composite gasket and had no metal wrapper. Plain gasket material may cause the head to get too hot(insulate it) and not let some heat transfer to the block. Thermo-syphon heads run very hot to start with so it might be something to consider. A cracked or warped head is no fun and can be a down right bummer!

Follow Ups:

• Re: Re: Re: Re: SETTING VALVES ON 10-20- BOB KERR Will@yahoo.com 14:59:36 02/19/02 (1)
  • Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: SETTING VALVES ON 10-20- BOB KERR Bob Kerr 16:56:10 02/19/02 (0)

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