Re: Stuck F-20N - What Next?

Posted by The Red Baron on October 20, 2003 at 18:21:09 from (152.163.252.227):

In Reply to: Stuck F-20N - What Next? posted by Tony on October 20, 2003 at 09:47:36:

I wouldn't be pulling any sleeves at this point. Not by a long shot. Nor should you begin by pounding anything down. It's not going to get you any force that you haven't already been applying. Get a peice of wood like about a 2x2 by 12-18 inches long or so. Preferrably oak or something hard. A piece of pine or some soft wood may wind up spintering. Lie underneath the tractor and place the end of the wood on the bottom of one of the piston rods you now have revealed since you took off the the botton half of the rod as you should have. Take a good sized ball been hammer or a small single jack and gently begin pounding upward, pounding upward until you begin to see some space between the piston rod and the crank shaft. Now the following is key here. DO NOT just continue pounding until the piston comes up out of the sleeve! Tap up a little and then go to the top and with a shaved 4x4 like the other poster suggested (I actually used a round piece of 2x material I custom cut just slightly smaller in diatmeter in order to protect the piston and more equally distribute the force, and that is what I would recommend) anyway, use that to tap down a little. Alternate between pounding up and pounding down, never too terribly much at any one time. I would be more than a little astonished if you did not get it to go.
In my case it was simply carbon build up that seemed to have the consistency of roofing tar in my F-12 that caused me to have to do what you are facing now. Once I had it free by working the piston back and forth it was obvious that the cylinder walls were not an issue. Thankfully I had not compounded my troubles by removing them. In my case after working the cylinder back and forth and washing the area with liquid wrench the cylinder eventually moved quite smoothly. I never did pound the cylinder high enough for the rings to spring free and I eventually just pounded it down and rebolted the piston rod caps. It runs fine, though in retrospect I probably should have pounded those cylinders out all the way and given those rings a good cleaning but as it was I was already far deeper into an engine than I had ever been and had more than enough anxiety on my mind.
Give it a try and I'm sure you'll get it, then come on back to the board. You certainly don't want to be fixing things that are not otherwise broken. By the way, there is a torque value for replacing those bolts and caps to the piston rods. I don't have it in front of me but I could find it if you don't have a manual and really need it. Oh, and another thing.....it is probably too late but you should try to keep those piston rod caps with the piston rods that they came off of and preferably faced the same way that they came off. Another thing is make SURE you place a good coating of heavy oil on the caps, crank shaft and piston rod before reassembly.

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