I got lucky with the first crank I ever had to have turned and was directed to the shop that actually does the work, as opposed to dropping it off at a parts house that would send it to them. A crank lathe is a very specialized machine, and the guys that run them will know more than you or I.
My guy looked at the number onthe crank, and went to a book the size of the Manhattan white pages and looked up the base specs for it (so no Farmall-specific experience is necessary). Pulled a mic out of his pocket to run the pins on mine. His assessment was that it had never been turned since manufacture, and he should be able to take it to .010 under, but there were a couple of pins close enough that he wasn't sure he'd be able to polish them at that cut, so he might have to go for .020 under.
In the end, it came back with .010 under on the rods and .020 under on the mains, and stamped as such in the meat of the crank so that the next guy will know what's been done and where he's starting from.
AS far as your crank, trust the machinist. He'll know how much to take it down and is well accustomed to supplying bearings to fit his handiwork. My sense is that it's a bit of a courtesy to buy the bearings from him, rather tha get them elsewhere. And they WILL be the right size.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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