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Single-Point Hitch/Turning Plow Questions
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Posted by Bill in NC on February 02, 2005 at 06:31:16 from (24.172.3.146):
I'm now becoming quite aware of how much the aging process is affecting my memory. Back in the 1960's, I was the one that set up Dad's 140 for plowing and was also the one that did the plowing, but you wouldn't know it if you saw my plowing yesterday. I bought a 140 last fall with single point hitch and a 2-14 bottom plow. Yesterday I began plowing a garden area comprised of clay pasture that hasn't been plowed in twenty years and had the following problems: 1) Front plow would dig, but left an un-cut swath about 12" wide between the right wheel track and the furrow 2) Rear plow would not dig Questions: a. Move the fast hitch connection to the "U" bar (directly under the seat) needs to be moved to the left so as to cock the fast hitch to the right to position the plow closer to the right wheel track? b. Loose or rigid diagonal link? c. Set rear-rocker arm connection to the peg setting that gives more up and down movement range (the plow drags the ground in the up position)? d. Any other suggestions or thoughts? Any ideas are appreciated. The good news is the tractor hunkered down and pulled well the couple times the plows got down deep. TIA Bill
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Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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