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Re: 1941 M Electrical Problem - Bob M I need your
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Posted by Janicholson on November 17, 2005 at 16:55:06 from (66.173.50.93):
In Reply to: Re: 1941 M Electrical Problem - Bob M I need your posted by El Toro on November 17, 2005 at 15:37:48:
Assuming that the starter has a push rod or big button switch on it, and that the ignition is OK, Try this fix. It bypasses the ignition resistor when starting and allows higher start voltage to the coil/points. From the starter side of the big switch, run a #12 wire to a 5 amp rated diode. (you can get them from an old alternator, there are six of them in there.) The used diodes can be either polarity so it needs to be installed so that current passes through it to the far side from where you soldered on the new wire. If it is backward it won't pass current. (to test the diode put one end of it on the + battery post and use a test light on the other. when it lights, that is the correct direction to assemble it into this circuit. Tape up the diode to prevent it from shorting on anything. run the wire from the diode to the coil + side (or the coil side of the resistor. The diode prevents current from flowing into the starter when trying to running the tractor. (it won't run without the diode) Automotive solenoids with four terminals provide this bypass on the "I" terminal, and they isolate the starter without a diode. It works for millions of vehicles on the road today!! try it. JimN
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Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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