Re: H engine rebuild--timing.

Posted by Janicholson on February 10, 2007 at 21:20:02 from (66.173.50.77):

In Reply to: H engine rebuild--timing. posted by Tom Windsor on February 10, 2007 at 19:37:25:

1}Put the crank at TDC #1 piston (Top Dead Center, closest to cam drive end.

2}With the cam gear off of the cam, apply engine assembly lube on the cam journals and cam bearings in the block, as well as the lobes of the cam.

3}Carefully place the cam into the block guiding it through the bearings with care, do not rest it on or nick the journals with the lobes or bearing journal edges. As it is inserted, keep alignment with the journals upper most in mind.

4} When it is all the way in, it will turn freely. At that point look at the gear.

5} There will be marks on the gear teeth matching marks on the drive gear on the crank. (there will be two marked teeth on the cam gear, and one marked tooth on the crank gear.

6} With the gear held in a position to mesh with the teeth on the crank gear (the two marks straddle the single mark), turn the cam so that its keyway/key is aligned with the gear's keyway.

7} Assemble them with the bolt, and torque it(I would use red locktite on the threads). The cam is now in time with the crank. Put assembly lube on the cam gear prep it for action.

8} Use assembly lube on the lifters (sides and flat ends, and put them in.
The distributor drive (or hopefully the hydraulic pump)will also have marks on its gear. Align these with the marks on the back side of the cam gear (visible in that hole), and install the drive/pump.

9} put on the oil pump (pack the gears with assembly lube).

10} Install the cylinder head as per the book, being sure to tighten the head nuts in five steps of about one fifth of the torque each, starting in the center studs, and progerssing to both ends in a repeated pattern for each torque setting.

11} Put in the pushrods and rocker arms Liberal use of lube on tips and butts of valves. Torque in steps to assure even tightening.

12}Put on a new oil filter, and fill the filter housing with oil while holding it down against the gasket, and tighten it. Put a pump type oil can in the oil pressure gauge hole using a small piece of rubber hose as a seal, and pump new engine oil into the gallery until it starts comming out the rocker arm. This assures oil pressure at start.

13} Adjust the valves cold (.020) following the book procedure.

14) Put on the pan and valve cover. torque these bolts till the gasket just starts to bulge a bit. I put a thin film of #2 permatex on the sheet metal side of these, and on the surface exposed to the oil of the engine to limit weaping through sometimes porous cork.

15} Install the distributor (one of two possible places) so the rotor points to #1 plug in the cap.

Install the engine rear seal components (if not done), then the rear engine plate, flywheel and clutch (with three bolts installed to keep it compressed).

16} install the front cover with new seal (assembly lubed up at the seal) then the pulley, being careful with the keyway. ( I believe a thin skiff of silver antisieze is a good assist in putting on the pulley, they come off so hard.

17} Then put engine in the frame, aligning the clutch splines (remember to lube the pilot bearing).

18} Attach governor components and intake/exhaust system (be careful to align the governor to throttle link at the carb carefully).

19} Put front accessories on including radiator and hoses. Attach wiring, and gauges.

20} Put in oil, fuel, and coolant.

Enjoy!!! (remember to retorque the head after it is well warmed up the first time) JimN

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