Re: Anybody actually done it? Super C rear axle seal?

Posted by Ed342 on July 13, 2007 at 22:17:07 from (216.234.123.15):

In Reply to: Anybody actually done it? Super C rear axle seal? posted by leon on June 15, 2007 at 03:09:49:

If you haven't started or completed your axle replacement yet I'm just off mine (almost) and happy to share some lessons. First, I did get a manual and it was interesting but basically not worth much for this job. In fact, all of the real problems were not covered at all.
Don't bother going in through the pto. Go in through the top deck. Pay particular attention to the bolt threads and lengths; mark them and be prepared to replace a few and probably drill out a few.
Remove all the weight you can from the deck. The axle change is relatively easy. The axle shaft runs through the housing, into the gear box body, through the bull gear and is kept in by a small disc with 2 bolts. If your shaft is broken off its easier. Take out the bull gear, remove the 2-bolt disk, reinstall the bull gear - probably using make shift shims to hold it in place - check the bg carefully for damage, especially the spline, and replace if necessary or questionable. Bolt everything back like you took it off. Decide if you want a new axle housing seal or silicone. For the deck itself the silicone should work fine and its a lot easier. If you take out the BG you will have to remove the pto shaft and there is also an oil tube that services the pto from the front of the case. One or both come out and replace easily. But pay special attention to how you r & r them. Pay particular attention to the pto on/off (outside) handle. Try to have either a chainfall or 2 other guys helpling you on the reinstallation. We had 2 problems we won't have again. On beginning the job we put the trans in neutral thinking we would (and had) reinstalled the deck, and shifting forks, exactly as they came off. Turns out somewhere during the process we and moved the sliding gears and the forks didn't fall correctly into their channels. To correct this we had to remove the deck again and take some time making sure the forks fell properly into the proper gear channels. This took a good hour and the manual was useless here. But its simple mechanics and we got it. This is where the chainfall or the extra guy made a difference. First time around there were only 2 of us and no chainfall and with the weight and 'reach over angles' and not lifting the control assembly and guage box sufficiently high and out of the way, we raised the deck at an angle. Our first deck reinstall was at the same angle and reach over problem. Big Mistake! Those 2 gears you'll see that determine the drive gear you're in have to be correctly matched with 2 forks below the shift lever. The forks have to fall into a channel each. The gears with their attached channels slide very easily. Make sure the shifter is in neutral; measure the distance between the 2 forks. Make sure the channels are the exact same distance apart and drop the deck w/forks straight down into the 2 channels. You'll understand all this when you get the case open. Have a flashlight handy to monitor this when the deck with forks is being lowered. There are 2 line up studs in the casing for the deck to lower onto. But watch those forks carefully. Our 2nd big problem is with the pto/side pulley assembly activator. With all else now working fine we now have to remove these units and figure out why they won't shut off. A pain but, hopefully, it will be only an hour or so job. This is a good time to replace your gear lube - 19.5 to 20 quarts of 90 weight. I'd say it wouldn't hurt to put the first half quart directly into the pto although that shouldn't be a necessity - the splash tube should get the oil up there quick enough; you'll just feel better. Again, silicone should work fine for this gasket. Again, pay special attention to the threads and lengths of all the bolts. This is also a good time to replace your 2 large fill plugs. Actually the one on the deck just left of the shifter is listed as the fill plug and the one on the rear above the pto is listed as an inspection plug but they're the same. They get rounded and are cheap and easy to replace to save future problems. Good luck. Hope some of this helps. Also - when you remove the guage box, check the wiring and connections in there. This is a good time to spot damage and potential problems and also to replace guages and switches in there if need be.

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