Posted by MN Scott on September 17, 2007 at 19:11:52 from (206.9.216.40):
In Reply to: More on my sleeves... posted by Uncle Fester on September 17, 2007 at 18:20:28:
The correct fix is to either fit the block with a repair sleeve and fit your sleeve inside that sleeve or find an oversize sleeve and hone your block to fit it. The oldtimers around here coat a loose sleeve with strong iodine. Then install it making sure not to get any on the crank or places were you don't want rust. That sleeve will be permanatlly rusted in and you will have exellent heat transfer ect. Done it my self on my SH, still running fine. The trouble with a loose sleeve is the vibrations will crack that top lip off the sleeve and it will get sucked into the crank. A low rpm H or M is not as bad as the high speed 6 bangers but you still don't want them loose.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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