I fought a similar problem for a long time on my 1939 A. The problem turned out to be a restriction in the intake manifold. I bought it with a stuck engine, and put new sleeves & pistons in and completely rebuilt the motor, but it always seemed to run bad under load, like it was missing on a cylinder. It would start on two cranks and idle great, but when advancing the throttle, it would 'putt-putt' like a 2 cyl. John Deere. Switched carb and mag with my nice running B, made no difference. Checked timing, valve clearnace, etc. many times; still ran bad.
This spring I took the carb off to clean it when it flooded, and I put my finger in the intake to see if it was wet from gas. That's when I noticed the passages felt restricted. I took the manifold off and found that were the passages branch out above the carb were restricted down to about 3/8" or 1/2" hole, and they should be about 1". I couldn't get the stuff out of the manifold, even by sandblasting. It almost looked like casting slag. I bought a new manifold for $100 on eBay, and the tractor runs great now.
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Today's Featured Article - Maintaining Rubber Tires - by Staff. The broad use of rubber tires on farm tractors and machinery has resulted in a great saving in both time and operating costs since the time of steel wheels. There are, however, certain basic fundamentals in the care of tires that should be followed carefully if the owner is to derive maximum benefit from his or her investment. First and most important is to maintain proper pressure for the work at hand. Your best guide to proper inflation is the operator's manual or instruction book tha
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