Not sure but think maybe you have a W series tractor. Since I'm not sure I will leave out bolster removeing instructions. After you get everything out of the way at front of engine. Remove water pump,crankshaft pin for hand crank and pulley retaining nut. Some crankshafts that don't show up in parts book have the nut and snout made in one piece.Remove pulley, sometimes front engine support will slide off then, if not leave it on front cover. Remove oil pan, it could be loosend and front bolts removed, but if cam needs to come out the oil pump does to. Also if you have to service idler gear the head of retaining bolt is up inside. Remove all bolts in cover and some on back of front engine plate, top bolts from injection pump,3 bolts from hydraulic pump. leave the lower inside mounting bolt in. Remove front cover and you will be looking at all the timing gears. If something is wrong make sure engine is on # 1 compression stroke when timing gears. Have you determined the distributor is not turning, valves not opening and closing,etc? If you can get the engine serial # after where it has D264 I may be able to tell if its a 400 engine. Also I wondered about your hydraulic system having a working relief valve when you described system before. Sounded like someone plumbed from pump to non original system bypassing regular pressure relief. If not that could cause a problem with timing gears.
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Today's Featured Article - Maintaining Rubber Tires - by Staff. The broad use of rubber tires on farm tractors and machinery has resulted in a great saving in both time and operating costs since the time of steel wheels. There are, however, certain basic fundamentals in the care of tires that should be followed carefully if the owner is to derive maximum benefit from his or her investment. First and most important is to maintain proper pressure for the work at hand. Your best guide to proper inflation is the operator's manual or instruction book tha
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