You can use your choice of "MY" diode, "BobM's" "idiot light", or "JohnT's" resistor anywhere that's conenient in the wire feeding power from the ignition switch to the alternator's #1 "switched excite" terminal.
You only need ONE of those three options, and ALL work EQUALLY WELL.
If you want an "idiot light" in the dash, go that route. USe a #194 lamp, or one of equivalent current draw.
If you want to use a resistor, go that way, but be advised it will get HOT, if the key happens to get left on, so you need to mount it so that it can dissipate the heat without melting any wires.
That's why I almost always use the DIODE... it provides protection to the alternator if there's a problem in the high-current part of the charging system wiring, and prevents the engine from "running on" when the ignition is switched "OFF", but it doesn't get HOT, so it can simply be covered in heat shrink tubing, and taped up along with the other wires in the harness.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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