Been changing my own tractor tires and tubes since I was a teenager. Rears aren't that bad to do but some fronts can be stubborn. I beat on the bead with the chopper for an hour on a 6.50 - 16 a couple of weeks ago before it broke.
If you have another tractor with a front end loader an easy way to break the bead on a rear tractor tire is to lay it down and use the edge of the loader placed on the tire just outside the rim to break the bead...
BTW, eventhough i've done countless tube changes I still managed to pinch a brand new tube in that front tire... have to admit I cussed a bit during that whole ordeal.
If it is full of fluid I have a pump and hose rigged up that will thread over the valve stem. I attach it with the valve stem at the top of the tire... I then either jack up and rotate the tire til the valve stem is straight down or i just move the whole tractor... Pump just speeds up the draining.. when the fluid gets below the valve stem I insert a very small poly tube into the tire (shrader valve is removed) and suck it out... takes a while with such a small orfice...
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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