Been changing my own tractor tires and tubes since I was a teenager. Rears aren't that bad to do but some fronts can be stubborn. I beat on the bead with the chopper for an hour on a 6.50 - 16 a couple of weeks ago before it broke.
If you have another tractor with a front end loader an easy way to break the bead on a rear tractor tire is to lay it down and use the edge of the loader placed on the tire just outside the rim to break the bead...
BTW, eventhough i've done countless tube changes I still managed to pinch a brand new tube in that front tire... have to admit I cussed a bit during that whole ordeal.
If it is full of fluid I have a pump and hose rigged up that will thread over the valve stem. I attach it with the valve stem at the top of the tire... I then either jack up and rotate the tire til the valve stem is straight down or i just move the whole tractor... Pump just speeds up the draining.. when the fluid gets below the valve stem I insert a very small poly tube into the tire (shrader valve is removed) and suck it out... takes a while with such a small orfice...
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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