Put the arm on the shaft without keys and see if it will tighten up on the taper (very likely because that is what the taper is for) then take a thicker Woodruf key and grind it down to fit the augered out hole in the shaft. Do the same for the tapered key way in the arm. Do the same for the other side and keyway. This will take a bit of dremel action, but very doable. The arm should tighten up on the taper with just a little more of the bolt sticking out, If the washer would now push on the sholder of the shaft, put a larger ID washer to allow the nut to drive the arm tight on the shaft's taper. When it is just about to be put together the last time, put Locktight brand stud and bearing mount liquid on the surfaces of the taper keys and shaft. Tighten it, then use a big socket, and a hammer over the nut driving the arm onto the shaft farther, then tighten , then drive the arm on more then final tighten and pin the nut. The taper tightness is 50 % of the holding force of the system. It wuill work, for little money. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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