The wire in question (I am thinking about the one that goes from the Amp gauge to the ignition switch) (if stock, it is a push pull little button with a mushroom shape on the operator side) if not stock, and has any other switch, it is going to the input to that switch. That wire is usually 14 gauge(I recommend heavier 12 gauge there). The fuse I am recommending is just like the ones used in stereos, but able to handle 30 amps with a 30 amp fuse. This will be a new addition to the system. The reason for it is to prevent melt downs and fires!. A spare can be placed in the box, or kept in a plastic case in the tool box. I also recommend a fusable link in the system placed in the 10 gauge wire going to the starter motor switch (battery cable side) from the amp gauge. This should be rated at a little over the rating of the alternator. This is also an item never mentioned in tractor discussions, and prevents meltdowns and fires. The fuse link is available at NAPA, and can be spliced into that wire near the starter switch. I do things to old tractors that modern tractors (and all automobiles) now have as standard because they prevent fire or harsh failure. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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