Re: Carb, coil, tune up info C-263 gas

Posted by bc on January 28, 2008 at 15:48:52 from (66.138.123.176):

In Reply to: Carb, coil, tune up info C-263 gas posted by bc on January 20, 2008 at 16:31:32:

Here is an update.

I took the carb apart again. Instead of spending $41 for a new float, which I may still have to do, I took a punch and partially flattened out the dent in it where the needle rides. Set the float level a 1/16" over to 1 3/8" to allow for the dent. Put it back together making sure it cleared the gasket. Then I shook it a few times and I could hear the float moving up and down without catching on any thing. The float seemed to stop the free flow of fuel now.

Added a 3/8" tee below the fuel tank outlet with a 2" nipple and cap to catch any rust along with adding a ball valve at the middle of the tee to shut off the fuel as the new sediment bulb now installed after the ball valve didn't seem to totally shut off the gas.

Put in a new 12v internal resistance coil from NAPA, the IC14SB. Put in new IH points along with the new IH condenser that was in there. I can't find a 11/32" wrench anywhere (no one carries them anymore) but found a 9mm worked just fine.

Put on new 7mm copper spark plug wires of the brand from Orscheln. I taped them out on a yard stick for a week at home to try to get the coil out of them.

Put in new autolite 388 spark plugs.

It was late and I didn't get to drive it, but it started up and ran just as slick as can be once I remembered to put the wire back on going from the coil to the dist. I still need to drive it to see if still boggs down in second gear though.

3 questions though:

1. The points adjustment. I would use a .020 feeler guage but when I tightened down on the screw for the final tightening, it would move the bracket and open up the points. I finally adjusted them with a .010 guage and then tightended it down. That left it with the proper .020. What is the best way to do it or what is wrong here?

2. The new spark plug wires are so stiff that I had to route them up and around where they touch the hood or are too close to the block. The new ones were also a right angle attachment at the plug and ride close to the block. The old wires were soft but they had some burnt ends and the ends stuck straight on to the plug where they weren't close to the block and the old rubber boots didn't stay tight on the new dist. I used some of that electrical grease on the new ones. With a couple of them, the boots and wires don't want to stay pushed down in the dist cause of the stiff wires and I don't like the way the copper ends attached to the wires. I know they will come loose or get burnt up over time. Anyone have a better idea on what to do for plug wires?

3. The old plugs. They were a D16. I put in a hotter autolite 388. I numbered them as I took them out. Seems like 4 or 5 of them were oily and 1 or 2 around the middle of the engine were dry and carboned up. This motor has a lot of blowby but it doesn't smoke out the exhaust very much. Does the condition of the plugs suggest anything to anyone?

Replies:

Add a Reply Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Optional Video Title: Optional Video URL: Advanced Posting Options Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.   Advanced Posting Tools   Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List  Return to Post

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]