The issue is probably the lack of vacuum when cranking (rings) that reduces the flow of intake through the carb enough to make it difficult to start. If the rings are worn, the best tactic is to replace the cylinder sleeves and pistons, check the crank for size and put in new bearings. The sleeves are wet, which means easy enough to do as a first time project. We can help. Another issue might be a vacuum leak, but less likely. If the rings are just stuck, Pulling the spark plugs, and filling the chambers with about a half cup of auto trans fluid (putting the plugs back in loose) for two weeks, then (removing the plugs) cranking it to blow excess out the spark plug holes. This can free up stuck rings, costs $2 and two weeks. If it doesnt help with the issue, I wager it will take the rebuild (about 600 when all is said and done, doing the work yourself) A vacuum chack simple to make is to hold your palm over the air intake on the carb (hose off) and have some one crank it (safe out of gear brakes locked etc.) if it pulls in on your hand massively, it may be OK in the vacuum department. Keep us informed, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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