How far shot is your field resistor? The one on my BN wasn't working. With it in place, I had no continuity across the hollow rivets that anchor it. I cleaned it up with electrical cleaner and a SOFT brush. (The core of it may look like mica, which would be brittle, but it's actually a flexible, fiber strip.) Looking, poking and testing some more, I got good continuity when checking between the very ends of the winding, but still none when checking with the probes on the terminals, as if the windings weren't connecting well to the rivets. A little more cleaning and a touch of solder at each end, where the winding goes under the rivet and voila, a functioning resistor.
Did I mention the smoke? Despite all the cleaning, the first time that resistor heated up, I thought I was going to smoke everything in the box! It was fine, though. The smoke subsided when I switched to high charge, and came back on L when I switched the resistor into the circuit. Letting it cool in between, I ran it maybe three cycles of five minutes each before it burned off the residual crud. I did pull the face of the panel afterward and used some low pressure air to blow away any dust or ash, and it's been working fine since.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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