You're right. No dykes. A hacksaw is a poor idea too. You'd likely need a fine file to clean up the outside, a reamer to clean up the inside edge and have to remove the whole line to flush and blow out the filings.
What you need is a tubing cutter. You should be able to get the one you need at any good hardware, or even at Home Depot or Lowe's.
The big ones look like a C-clamp, with a couple of rollers on the fixed end that cradle one side of the tube, and a rolling cutting wheel on the threaded end that tightens against the side opposite the rollers. That gives you three points -- two rollers and a rolling cutting wheel -- to support and keep things in line. You thread the wheel so it just bites into the tube, give the whole thing a couple of turns around the tube, thread the cutting wheel in a little more, turn it a couple more times . . . Your first turns will score in just a shallow notch, but as you thread the cutting wheel in deeper the notch gets deeper and eventually cuts through.
Better for the small tube on this job, and for no more than you'd use it, they make a much smaller one that you could hide in your closed fist. Instead of looking so much like a C-clamp, it looks more like a small c-shaped cube, with a knob on the one side to thread in the cutting wheel. Works just the same as the big ones, and can be had for under or about ten bucks.
It avoids the need for other tools to clean up the cut and the pressure from the cutting wheel leaves just the slightest indentation on the end of the cut to make it easier to get the pieces of your compression fitting over the end of the line.
The link is to the assortment of such things at Sears, to improve on my questionable description of the gadget, and to give you an idea of the range of what's available.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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