To check for power at the points, hook up your voltmeter to the distributor body and the movable side of the points. Turn on the ignition and open the points. Be careful not to ground the moving part with your screwdriver. You should have 11 to 12 Volts.
If you have power there, move the lead from the points to either of the coil terminals. With the points still open you should have voltage there too. If so, check to see that the fuel shut off solenoid moves. There is a coil in there that could be heating up and going bad ( or has gone bad now). If that moves, shut off the ignition, and short the wire from the condensor to the distributor body. You should see a little spark. When you are sure that the little capacitor is discharged, set your meter to Ohms and measure between the wire and the condensor body. It should be infinite (open circuit). If not the condensor is bad. The ignition coil should measure between 3 and 6 ohms across the terminals (disconnect both wires first).
You should have bought a decent M if you needed more power than an H. Live power and hydraulics are overrated. Otherwise, bring it over and I will get it back to you in July.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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