Re: Primer?

Posted by Bill B on March 15, 2000 at 15:47:54 from (209.182.69.48):

In Reply to: Primer? posted by Rick on March 15, 2000 at 07:33:47:

Epoxy primer is best. It will self etch, and sticks well to bare metal. It is waterproof, so it wont rust under it. PPG DP epoxy is the paint that the auto makers specify for body shops to use in order to maintain the factory rustout warrenty. You must use a good respriator or air breather. Respirator is probably ok outside. Let it wait a day and paint right over it without sanding. IH painted the raw metal with red enamal, so this is a big inproovement, and still lets the texture of the castings show through. If you do not paint over it within a week, you must scuff it (which can be difficult on cast iron) because it hardens so tough the next coat will not stick well unless scuffed. within a week no scuffing is necessary. For the tin work, use urethane surfacer over the epoxy.This is stable, unlike laquer surfacer which moves in the heat, or with gas or thinner on it. I like to use urethane top coat. Base coat/clear coat is a bit overkill, but it is easy to apply (thin coats of color) and looks excellent, although probably much better than new. The good paint is more expensive, but lasts much longer, and looks much better, and is more fade resistant, and acid rain resisitant. IH enamal is $30 to $40 a gallon, and the best urethane is over $200 a gallon for red, which is more expensive than other colors. It all depends on what you want the final product to look like, and how often you want to repaint. Mostly you get what you pay for.
I restore cars for a living, and use the best paints, for the best possible finish, that will last the best. I painted a tractor with the enamel, and was dissapointed in the results. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. I remember painting farmalls with rustoleum when I was a kid, and thinking they looked great.

• Bill's place in the Country

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• Re: Re: Primer? Brian Schmidt 19:36:05 03/15/00 (0)

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