The bolts in the clutch shaft couping are tapered and thus wedge into the holes. They are usually in there real tight, but I've always been able to break them loose (after the nuts are off) by using a box end wrench on the heads of the bolts and twisting. Better to use a 6 point wrench if you have one that fits. You may need to use a hammer on the wrench to jar the tapered shoulder bolts loose. You might as well order new rubber washers for the coupling as the ones in there are likely shot. Also the cup washers are also usually bad. You can't get the transmission input shaft out until you get that drive coupling out. Also, as I recall, you can't get one of the transmission shafts out without removing the brake cross shaft. I believe it is the counter shaft, but don't recall for sure. The manual says you can do it without removing that cross shaft by removing the snap retainer ring on the back bearing, but with all that's in the way, I don't see how that could be done.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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