The bolts in the clutch shaft couping are tapered and thus wedge into the holes. They are usually in there real tight, but I've always been able to break them loose (after the nuts are off) by using a box end wrench on the heads of the bolts and twisting. Better to use a 6 point wrench if you have one that fits. You may need to use a hammer on the wrench to jar the tapered shoulder bolts loose. You might as well order new rubber washers for the coupling as the ones in there are likely shot. Also the cup washers are also usually bad. You can't get the transmission input shaft out until you get that drive coupling out. Also, as I recall, you can't get one of the transmission shafts out without removing the brake cross shaft. I believe it is the counter shaft, but don't recall for sure. The manual says you can do it without removing that cross shaft by removing the snap retainer ring on the back bearing, but with all that's in the way, I don't see how that could be done.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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