Good point, Mike! I cautioned somebody about that just the other day, who is hopin' to be able to re-ring or re-sleeve in-frame.
In general, I don't believe drivin' a piston down is a good idea unless the cap is still on the rod to prevent just what you describe about a ring expanding once it pops out the bottom of the sleeve.
If you've got just one piston stuck, you might be able to free it up by beatin' from the top. And you might even get by with it if you've got two stuck, but only if they're not stuck too hard. But if one or more is stuck or either one is stuck hard, poppin' the rod cap off and beatin' upward is about the only way to go.
Even at that it could get into drivin' piston, sleeve, rod and all out as a unit, and cuttin' away the sleeve to get the rod back. BTDT, but on a 113. Not sure if those dry sleeves are as prone to poppin' out with a beatin' as wet sleeves, and the heating and cooling that others mentioned wmight wind up bein' what does the trick.
But, fer sure, drivin out the bottom with the crank in ain't gonna work!
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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