If the freeplay is at one inch (from the edge of the platform, there is nothing that changing the fingers will fix. If there is lost motion in the cross shaft, or clevices in the linkage, they will cause issues, but should be adjustable enough with a new disk to work. If there is play in them, putting new pins in the clevices may help. Again if the freeplay is OK, the clutch should release. A warped hub on the friction disk, will cause dragging of the clutch. My test of the system requires it to be outside in a safe clear location. Pointing at a clear stretch of open lawn, or road/field, with the tractor shut off, put it in 4th gear, push the clutch in all the way to the stop, Start the engine and put it at 1/4 throttle. Start letting out the clutch slowly. If it takes right off within an inch of release from bottomed out, the adjustment is wrong. If it doesnt move until the pedal is 3/4ths the way out, the adjustment is OK. If it drags so much that the tractor cannot be put into gear while running, and the engagement point is at the 3/4 travel area as above, I would suspect a warped friction disk. The specification on the finger adjusters is that they be within .002" of each other measured from the disk hub to the tip that touches the release bearing, with a depth reading caliper and good measuring practice. (this spec. is an experience based number, not from a book)If the disk was put in backwards (springs in the hub to the flywheel) it will not release, and the disk must be turned around. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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