The flywheel puller did it. With much smaller bolts, I was fairly gentle on the puller torque, so I gave the 1lb hammer some fairly brisk whacks before it came.
Now that I think about it, a couple other things made me scratch my head though:
I found no other way to clear the oilpump gear on the cam other than knocking out the tappet guide on #1 intake (with the lifter still in it), #1 exhaust of course I was able negotiate because the bearing was then out. This worked fine [despite my hesitance to put steel to steel (didn't have a brass punch long enough, so grabbed a real soft bolt) to steel and whack it with a steel hammer and hope things move before marring or breaking], but don't recall seeing this noted anywhere, nor does it seem to make sense that it would be assembled in this way, but maybe?
Also [I think I was asking about this before, but don't recall the answers]: if I have the block boiled out, do I need to worry about damaging the cam bearings or tappet guides? It seems they should be fine, but sure hate mess up such things when they're good yet.
Finally, I assume the diametral tolerances for the mains are around .003", but I've never noticed a spefic tolerance published. Anybody know? They probably can run pretty loose, but with it tore down this far, it makes sense to me to replace them anyway.
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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