Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have still yet to tear into it this evening, planning on tommorow. I did cut 3 lengths of 3/8-24 all thread "ready-rod" at work. It is true black oxide Grade 8 or 9.8, it is hard stuff. I do not remember what the clevis looks like or if it has female threads. If not I will drill and tap to 3/8-24. If modifications are needed I plan to do both sides to keep it consistant. I think I have the broken rod covered.
Now, for the $64,000 question... For the 504 disk brakes, what is the minimum disk thickness? I know they are well aged and well used. When I do not use them for a while I have to "ride" them to clear the surface rust, ect to bring them back to par. I am sure that 4 new disk would not be a bad idea.
I have been told by an old IH mechanic to take the disk and cut additional grooves with a grinder to help them clear out to prevent glaze. Pretty much he said get aggressive with them. I know they have some grooves as manufactured. Cutting additional grooves seems like I am removing and wasting expensive material (bout $65 - $90 for 4).
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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