Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have still yet to tear into it this evening, planning on tommorow. I did cut 3 lengths of 3/8-24 all thread "ready-rod" at work. It is true black oxide Grade 8 or 9.8, it is hard stuff. I do not remember what the clevis looks like or if it has female threads. If not I will drill and tap to 3/8-24. If modifications are needed I plan to do both sides to keep it consistant. I think I have the broken rod covered.
Now, for the $64,000 question... For the 504 disk brakes, what is the minimum disk thickness? I know they are well aged and well used. When I do not use them for a while I have to "ride" them to clear the surface rust, ect to bring them back to par. I am sure that 4 new disk would not be a bad idea.
I have been told by an old IH mechanic to take the disk and cut additional grooves with a grinder to help them clear out to prevent glaze. Pretty much he said get aggressive with them. I know they have some grooves as manufactured. Cutting additional grooves seems like I am removing and wasting expensive material (bout $65 - $90 for 4).
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Allis-Chalmers WD45 (Gas Version) - by Staff. Beginning production in 1953, the WD45 had the same general look as the WD tractor which was produced earlier - but was much more powerful. This was due to the new 4-cylinder "Power Crater" gasoline engine with a 4 x 4-1/2 inch bore and stroke. Some people feel this was one of the most significant tractors offered by Allis-Chalmers in those days. Nothing in its weight or power class could match its performance. In 1954 they began offering the WD45 with the new "Snap-Coupler&quo
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