Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Sheet metal questions


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by rumplestiltskin on June 09, 2009 at 11:01:16 from (192.88.212.34):

In Reply to: Sheet metal questions posted by jray on June 08, 2009 at 16:13:05:

Hi, Jerry.

I'll try to answer what I can in the order you asked.

1 - Shrug (sorry).

2 - Even if you can get hold of those nuts, you may not be able to get the screws out without messing up the slots in the screw heads. I don't remember how I removed mine, but my first guess would be PB Blaster for the threads and small vise grips for the nuts. Depending on how much time and patience you have, you may find it better to just sacrifice and replace the screws and nuts. At that point, anything goes -- vise grips or even a small pipe wrench on the screw heads, etc.

Fastenal (www.fastenal.com) calls those special nuts with the clips "cage nuts."

I use candle wax or a small amount of anti-seize compound when reinstalling the screws to avoid facing the same situation again later. (For my instrument panel screws, I use stainless steel -- but since you used the word "restoration," you may think that's blasphemy). ;-)

3 - As the other gents said, just about anywhere.

4 - On frozen grease zerks, I give the ball (or the place where the ball should be) a couple of moderate taps with a center punch. If that doesn't work, then a little heat from the propane torch and a couple more taps. If still no luck, then I replace the zerk. Some screw in, some press in. I don't have a manual handy, so I'm not sure which type yours is.

5 - (I'm assuming your brakes are identical or similar to those on a 350 Utility.)

It's important to keep the brakes as clean and dry as possible. Make sure the stationary braking surfaces (all four of the surfaces that the brake disks rub against, eight if you count both left and right brakes) are as clean as you can get them; use lacquer thinner, brake parts cleaner, etc. Make sure no lubricant is leaking along the shaft from the differential (if it is, replace the seal). Also, make sure no hydraulic fluid is leaking on top of the brake cover to seep down inside. Finally, make sure the drain hole on the bottom of the brake cover is unplugged.

I use a little non-hardening gasket goop on the seam between the TOP HALF ONLY of the brake cover and the differential housing. This seems to do a pretty good job of keeping out rain and hydraulic fluid.

Mark W. in MI


Replies:




Add a Reply

:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List 
Return to Post 

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - Choosin, Mounting and Using a Bush Hog Type Mower - by Francis Robinson. Looking around at my new neighbors, most of whom are city raised and have recently acquired their first mini-farms of five to fifteen acres and also from reading questions ask at various discussion sites on the web it is frighteningly apparent that a great many guys (and a few gals) are learning by trial and error and mostly error how to use a very dangerous piece of farm equipment. It is also very apparent that these folks are getting a lot of very poor and often very dangerous advice fro ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: 1997 cub cadet 7275 compact utility tractor 4wd hydro trans cracked block 3500 [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy