Not sure what the disconnected electricl thingy is. If it has two wires I might guess that is/was a core heater of some sort - definitely an after-market add-on. No matter, you might leave it in place until you got a piece of the right hose to replace it.
To drain you should only have to remove the cap (and by rights not even that if your system is truly the non-pressurized one as it was built -- it should be vented at the top anyway). The actual drain runs from the lower left side of the lower inlet on the motor. If it hasn't been modified, you should see a short piece of steel pipe capped off and sticking down vertically through a hole on the left underside of the front bolster. The top end of this pipe will be threaded into a 45 street elbow that threads into the inlet casting. To drain , just remove the cap at the bottom. I say that like it's easy. It's sometimes necessary to get a pipe wrench on the vertical pipe to get the cap off without threading the pipe out of the elbow further up. Even then, it's not uncommon to find the pipe to be plugged up with sediment -- both the common crud and anything that might have been dumped in there over the years as a sealer -- and need to ream it out with a stiff wire. If that doesn't do it, it may be necessary to remove the pipe anyway and maybe even the elbow if it's plugged, too.
If that pipe is missing start looking at the inlet casting. You'll find some folks dispensed with the piping and used just a pipe plug in the thread in the casting, or in the elbow. (A's, for example, had just the plug in the casting.)
Vinegar works like Gene suggested, as does washing soda (Arm and Hammer still makes it, you'll find it in the laundry detergent aisle right near the 20 Mule Team Borax.) Two pounds mixed first into 3+ gallons of water, then poured into the radiator. Don't forget to put your drain plug in first! And DON'T mix the vinegar and the washing soda! Neither is as effective at removing heavy buildup in the head and block that tends to accumulate back at #3 and #4, as getting a pressure nozzle into the top outlet and the lower inlet, but a good warm run with either will help. with the motor running, the fan suction will hold a tall kitchen trash bag up against the grill and help to warm it up well so that whatever solution you use will have a chance to circulate.
As for the fan, the bottom pulley is atached to your crankshaft and won't move. It's only the shaft in the fan bracket that you can loosen, just as Gene described. You needn't remove the radiator to do all that, but you can cut a piece of corrugated cardboard and slide in place to protect the fins if you want.
Your fan shaft should have two pulleys. The fan belt runs in the larger pulley to the front. The generator belt runs on the smaller pulley behind it. SO, if you have a generator and need to belt it up, put the generator belt on first!
And, if you haven't ordered on of them, too, the Operator's Manual is as helpful and more so than the Service Manual on some of these more routine maintenance items. I recommend it.
Probably not as quick as you asked for, but I hope it clarifies anyway.
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