Re the system. It is not a good idea to run that wire that way. Use a test light, and put the lead to ground. Put the probe on the Positive battery post (should be light) Put the probe on the Starter relay where the battery connects (should be light!) Put the probe in the terminal on that post where the wire attaches that goes to the dash (fat 10ga wire but not a cable) (should be light) Put the probe on the other end of that wire at the amp gauge, wire terminal, not the amp gauge terminal bolt) (should be light) Put the probe on the terminal where that wire connects (should be light) Put the probe on the other amp gauge terminal, LOAD side. (should be light) Put the probe on the wire going to the Ignition switch at the amp gauge (should be light) Put the probe on the bat terminal of the ignition switch Should be light. (I'll bet this wire has a corroded terminal or bad connection) should be light. The reason your gauge is going nuts is that the whole system is now partially through the amp gauge, and part way through the extra wire. Clean every terminal and check every wire in the Probing path and you will find the issue. Do not use that wire (it was an OK bypass test, but not a solution at all. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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