Sounds good to me. I've already removed the long bull plug. My recollection is that the drain tube in the rear may allow oil to run right on top of the rear end gear but I'd have to go look again. Since my 2606 doesn't do any heavy long term field work, I probably can't hurt the rear end.
I didn't see a way to unbolt that plate with the drain tube unless the rear end housing was opened up or I believe the draft control housing is removable from the top of the rear end but more of a job than it is worth. If I felt the necessity, I would cut the tube. I did have about an inch worth of sludge I cleaned out of the bottom though. My drain tube had a bead that made it look like it was welded and no thread on it that you would see since tapered pipe thread usually doesn't screw all the way into a nipple. I'm not sure why they would change that particular part with some welded and some threaded though. I just know I put a pipe wrench on it and all I could do was start bending the tube.
On the 2606, my recollection on tracing out the oil cooler line is that it comes back to a block on the side of the draft control housing. I don't see it going to the rear end housing. However the draft control housing itself has some internal passageways in the housing and maybe one of them run down to the rear end and spray oil.
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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