Valve setting I do it this way others do a different system. It must be set cold first, so setting it twice (or once) is normal The cold setting is .020" all valves. Take out the plugs. (turn it with a wrench, on the front nut) Set the intake valve on cylinder #1 (Front) when its exhaust valve just starts to open. Set the intake when the exhaust just closes. This is the two positions that can be seen on each cylinder to be as far away from a lobe on the cam as possible while still knowing where it is. The order is (front to back EI-IE-EI-IE) Look at #1 valves, Turn the engine till the intake just starts to begin opening (moves) then adjust the exhaust valve. Rotate more until the exhaust just closes (just stops moving after having been open) and adjust the intake. Treat every cylinder (pair of valves shown above the same way, remembering they switch places between cylinders) I put a rag over the ones I have done to keep track of progress, and avoid mixing what I am looking at. Second setting warmed up, not hot, is .017" JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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