What sort of a puller are you using? (pics would be nice) And have you verified that you have clearance to the flange at the top of the sleeve so you are actually pulling relative to the block and not simply attempting to crush the sleeve?
Relative to the Sawzall, that's a classic method for removing a generic sleeve but I'd be worried about going too deep. I think I'd try a file or a die grinder first to create a couple notches which might create a (helpful) fracture.
IMHO while there are a few torch wizards out there that's a little too sensitive for the typical class of work. Any burrs, bubbles, or drips will create resistance and be dragged past the existing machining, creating damage.
Here is what I used on my 340's engine block recently. This worked well. The bottom puck has a pilot which clears the sleeve bore by about .020". It simply keeps the threaded rod centered. and the OD is slightly undersized as well so it doesn't drag any more than the OD of the sleeve.
This post was edited by mattofvinings at 15:30:30 08/03/09 2 times.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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