I have an A that sounds like it has the same zenith carb and have a similar problem. The only way it will run is with the main (t handle) needle screwed all the way in. If I back it out, it bogs down and dies. If you turn the surge spring screw in too much, it will keep it from idling down. If the stop screw is backed out, that might be the problem. I think that spring gets worn out and when you turn it in enough to work, there"s not much give left it in. I"m planning on replacing that and the governor spring in mine. If you disconnect the arm to the carb and the throttle lever arm, you might find there"s more slop than you think as well... that is the case with mine. Mine had a very similar problem to yours and I"ve worked it out a lot. Another thing that might be a problem, even though you say you set it is the shaft from the gov arm to the carb. I fiddled with mine and ended up with the engine running around the right high idle speed, but wouldn"t idle down very much at all... I ended up readjusting it to specs again. One odd thing with mine is that you can"t really turn the yoke on the shaft towards the carb enough to make the pin slide in like the manuals says it should... it runs out of threads. Makes me wonder if the governor arm could be not indexed correctly on the governor shaft? My governor shaft arm was also twisted slightly that may have put it in a bind a little. I very carefully bent it back. Hopefully we"ll both figure it out. Mine is running much better and has good power. Before, it would run good and then kind of stumble under any load at high rpm. At low rpm, it was ok... good luck
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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