1.188 Inches. The pressure plate and clutch disk fit on different shafts because of the live PTO. Pressure plate bolts to the flywheel, and the hollow PTO shaft fits into it. Clutch plate fits on the solid shaft that goes thru the PTO shaft and goes into the pilot bearing. If you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel before putting the front and rear back together, you run the risk of not having the clutch disk aligned properly (the main shaft flops up and down until it slides into the pilot bearing) and it can and will bend. Been there and bent it due to not knowing any better, ie stupidity. As stated you can use a GOOD alignment tool if you insist on bolting it first. I am not familiar with your engine. You have to drop the oil pan to change the main bearing, I don't know what else. Splitting the tractor is independent of changing the main bearing, you can change the rear seal then, I suppose. Changing the front trans seal (actually it is the TA seal) is up to you. You can see if it leaks once you split the tractor. Mine was not -- that is not to say it won't.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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