I replaced all the electrical parts (points, coil, condenser, plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor) on my 2606 before I settled on the fuel issue but being new to me and not knowing how old everything was, it was due. The coil never seemed bad or got hot, but it sure ran better with a new coil. Not sure I like those replacement plug wires though.
Those gas tractors are gravity feed for fuel and when they run dry, they quit like someone shut off the key. Not like a car with a fuel pump that will pick up a little and pump a little and make your car spit and sputter for a while before it dies. That's why most people go thinking electrical parts.
If it runs now ok, I wouldn't mess with cleaning the carb again.
Mine had the solenoid but the actuator guts were gone. They put an o-ring on it and screwed it in and out like an adjusting jet. I don't run it long enough to diesel and besides I use a 1/4 turn ball valve to shut off the fuel and let it die on its own. I replaced the solenoid with a standard adjustable needle jet, packing, and packing nut that shows for those carbs. The new solenoids don't have an adjustable slot headed jet, just in and out, so not worth it to me to buy one.
You need to deal with the rust issue. Lots of stuff in the archives. I acidized mine without removing the tank using muratic acid and phosphoric acid to stop the flash rust. Still get some rust a year later.
If yours has the standard sediment bowl screwed up into the threaded collar under the tank, you can screw it out and clean out the tank once you have drained the fuel. Then go to the auto parts store and get a piece of rubber hose that fits over the nubbing that sticks up on the sediment bowl but thin enough hose to fit into the tank. About an inch or so off the bottom will keep the rust and gunk out. Then once a year or so, remove it and flush the rust out. I've used some window screen folded over and curved around it as well. Used small head bolt tie wire to twist it around the nubbing. Somewhere they have a screen that fits up there but not on the caseih site.
Mine didn't have a sediment bowl and the one I bought from caseih would never totally shut off. Finally plumbed it with brass fitting and a drip leg (like used with natural gas) coming down out of a tee. Then tee off to the ball valve and then to then elbow to the sediment bowl. The drip leg doesn't seem to catch all the rust so I may have to fashion some type of screen to stick up there yet.
Do NOT use an inline fuel filter unless you want to carry a tool box full of them around for spares as they will plug up with rust before you know it. They also seem to restrict the fuel. Napa has them in the right size for about $5. Mine had one of those little walmart G2 or G3 inline filters on it when I bought it. Went through a few of them and at the price, decided it was best to just fix the rust problem.
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Today's Featured Article - The Fordson F Ignition System - by Anthony West. A fellow restorer contacted me earlier this year asking for some help and advice on a model F that he was restoring. He had over a period of months spent a fair amount of his hard earned cash on replacement parts for the old "trembler" ignition. Sadly though all his efforts seemed to be a waste of time and money as he still couldn''t get the temperamental old thing to run correctly!! If i said that this was a little frustrating for him that would be "conservative" in fact the problem had reduce
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