1) YOU SAY: I do have 10 gauge wire from the BAT on the Alternator to the POS side of the Battery.
That wire SHOULD run to the Load (NOT Battery)side of the ammeter NOT direct to the Battery. If you wire it direct to the battery (Supply side) of Ammeter, the ammeter isnt registering charging current out of ammeter to battery. IM NOT SURE IF I GOT THAT CORRECT IN MY POST ABOVE, SORRY I WAS IN A HURRY. Theres only 1 wire on battery supply side of ammeter, it wires to + of battery, the other Load side feeds loads (lights and ignition) PLUS wires to genny or alternators output
2) YOU ASK: I was wondering about the Coil, looked backwards to me, but it always ran fine for me before I messed around removing the alternator. (Could that be whats killing the diode??)
The coil will still produce a spark if at reverse polarity, but its not as good or efficient as if its wired correct to match battery polarity i.e. for Neg ground the coils - wires to distributor. NO thats NOT whats killing the diode. Excess curent can kill a diode, but that would mean the alternator has a problem??? Normally the excitation circuit would be vey low, less then an amp even UNLESS THERES A SHORT??? You sure the lil No 1 (Excitation) terminal was used for excitation?? and 2 (Sense) wired to big main output...
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of Farm Machinery - by Joe Michaels. I am a mechanical engineer by profession, specializing in powerplant work. I worked as a machinist and engine erector, with time spent overseas. I have always had a love for machinery, and an appreciation for farming and farm machinery. I was born and raised in Brooklyn, New York. Not a place one would associate with farms or farm machinery. I credit my parents for instilling a lot of good values, a respect for learning, a knowledge of various skills and a little knowledge of farming in me, amo
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