Haas said: (quoted from post at 16:40:32 03/26/10) Some say you can do this without removing the cover. I think much easier (despite the work of removing the cover) if you do. You do NOT have to split the tractor. You can remove the assembly that contains the input gear and bearing from under the bottom of the clutch housing. You will have to remove the hydraulic Lift All unit if the tractor is so equipped. Once the hydraulic unit is out, disconnect the coupling between the clutch and the transmission input shaft. I think you may have to remove the clutch shaft. Can't recall if there is enough room with the shaft left in place. Once you have enough room, you can unbolt the transmission input bearing assembly and pull it out. Then you can get to the 5th gear.
No need to remove the hydraulics when I did it last summer. I do have smaller hands though. It was plenty easy.
Check the springs that push the balls when you get in there! I could see that my 5th one was bad, but when I looked at two others they were rotted in half, but still doing their job!!! I ended up replacing them all bc I was in there. They were not too much, but all said and done I ended up at about $1300 after all new gaskets and seals, two $105 bearings, poppet springs, 4/5th gear, gear oil...I sure do hope I missed a few things!
This post was edited by sflem849 at 18:50:00 03/26/10.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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