The valve you've selected will work fine. As someone who has pulled a vineyard disk many miles, I would recommend an upgrade to a valve with a detent. That way at the end of a row you can reach over and throw the lever to raise the disk and get your hand back on the wheel for a turn (assuming no power steering on your H). When the disk cylinder reaches the end of its travel, it will kick the valve back to the center position. If you're not doing row-crop work and just dragging the disk around an open field, a detent won't help you much.
To answer your question, it looks like you have a good plan. Pay attention to routing the hoses and be sure to buy enough hose that the either rear tire can hit the hitch on the disk before pulling your new valve post over into your hip.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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