Posted by jdemaris on June 11, 2010 at 06:39:14 from (67.142.130.17):
In Reply to: alternator update posted by karl f on June 10, 2010 at 23:05:08:
No, it does not have to be complicated. It becomes so when you don't have all the data/info. What model of 10SI? What pulley ratio and RPM at testing? What regulator? Was a thorough bench test done?
There are at least four different Delco 10SI model alternators - and you didn't mention which one you have. 10SI can be a #100, #102, #116, #136 and maybe more. They have different cut-in speeds and sometimes different amp-draw on the field circuit.
10SI model # 116 - 61 max amp must spin faster then 1600 RPM to make any charge current.
10SI model # 136 - 63 max amp must spin faster then 1600 RPM to make any charge current.
10SI model # 116 - 72 max amp must spin faster then 1200 RPM to make any charge current.
10SI model # 116 - 72 max amp must spin faster then 1200 RPM to make any charge current.
On the subject of field current and resistors -the voltage drop depends on the ohm-rating of the resistor, supply voltage, AND amp-draw all calculated together. A 10SI can draw up to 3.4 amps on the field circuit, but also some work fine when only drawing 1/2 amp.
I'm not trying to complicate things, but you have to know exactly what you have and what condition it is in.
If your alternator has something wrong with it, and needs as much field current to excite as your ignition coil needs to start the engine - you can't install enough field resistance to stop IGN backfeed (unless you switch it or use a diode).
The reality is, Delco 10SI and 12SI alternators are pretty simple and easy to check and fix. Takes 15 minutes to pull one apart and check everything (slip ring, brushes, diodes, diode-trio, etc.). Regulator can be checked when running via the "full-field" short-plug in back.
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