There is no need to worry about "torque specifications" for radiator bolts. I cannot imagine assembly line workers or servicemen taking the time to torque them to a specific amount. Snug them up as you would any 5/16" bolt. Start in the middle and work your way out. I would recommend that you coat each of them with Permatex Never Seize to make a future disassembly much easier. As far as silicone is concerned, its great stuff if properly used. Many people use it incorrectly, causing problems in engines and transmissions, as large pieces end up blocking oil passages when they come off on the inside of the assembly. I personally prefer to make the radioator gasket out of the cork/rubber composite material available at almost all automotive supply stores. I spread a THIN coat of RTV on each side and allow it to get good and tacky before I apply the gasket and bolt the assembly together. A cub's cooling system has no water pump and is a "passive", thermo siphon system. Small chunks of excess RTV could easily plug the tops of the tubes in your core, but it would take several of them to cause the tractor to overheat and it would be difficult for them to get there in the first place, as they would most likely settle in the bottom of the tank. Don't worry about using it.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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