I cut out the steel line from the fuel pump to the carb and replaced it with rubber line. I will try it out soon on some oats. The fuel tank cap is clear and actually will "reverse vent" I guess you could say, as the fuel gets so hot that the tank becomes pressurized. Regarding the coil, I noticed it does get quite a bit hotter than the engine. Is this something to worry about/fix? The old coil had "12V use with external resistor" on it. I cannot locate any ballast resistor or resistance wire on the rig. It ran with that old coil for probably 20 seasons of light use (around 50-75 acres/year), but just within the past couple of years it has started acting up and getting worse. So that led me initially to changing the coil, but it hasn't changed things to my satisfaction (I used 12V coil 396547R93 which, as I understand, has internal resistance and is to be used with systems lacking external resistance, which is what I believe the C-153 engine is, and this is the coil part no. for this engine. The ignition system was fiddled with by a local mechanic nearly 20 years ago, so maybe he had something to do with putting on the old coil, but as to why it ran so well all of those years with that setup [no resistor and a coil which needed it] is a mystery to me). I have probably confused everyone, but that is the way I understand this to be. Any other comments or ideas are welcome.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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